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1) Another Free Rootkit Security ToolWe've been covering "rootkits" as they've emerged as a growing infection vector for malware attacks (See http://langa.com/newsletters/2005/2005-04-18.htm#9 and #11 in the Plus! Edition's "Reader Bit By Rootkit Virus;" http://www.langalist.com/Plus/newsletters/2005/2005-07-25plus.asp . Rootkits aren't new, but their exploitation by the Bad Guys is a relatively recent development, and so new tools are arriving to counter the growing threat:
Thanks, JO. BTW: The above is beta version, but appears to be pretty stable. Click to email this item to a
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--------------( the above is an advertisement )------------- 2) Reducing Hard Drive Wear
Most of the normal wear is on the drive bearings: They're *always* in use whenever the motor's spinning, even if the rest of the drive is idle. That's why letting the drive "spin down" (stop rotation) during periods of idleness can extend the drive's life. Just as important, or perhaps even more so in the aggregate sense (with hundreds of millions of drives in use worldwide), it saves energy to let an idle drive shut off. It's different for the drive heads. The head positioning mechanism is active every time the head must "seek" data somewhere on the drive; but when the drive is spinning, there's normally no contact at all between the drive heads themselves and the surface of the magnetic platters: The heads are designed to harness aerodynamic forces to "fly" (literally!) on a cushion of air a tiny distance just above the disk surface. (See http://www.pcmech.com/show/harddrive/65/ or http://www.google.com/search?q=drive+head+platter+fly ) As long as your drive is working correctly, the acts of reading and writing data, per se, won't wear out the recording surface--- at least, not in any way that matters in human scales and timeframes. But there *can* be contact between the heads and the platters. Sometimes, it's intentional: Some drive makers designate "landing zones" on the hard drive where no data is stored, and where it's OK for the heads to come to rest on the platter's surface. These landing zones are where the heads are parked when the drive is off. Other makers raise the heads and lock them in place; still others do both--- parking the heads in a raised position, but over a safe area. A "head crash" happens when the drive is in operation and something causes the heads to descend through the air cushion and actually contact the data-carrying surface of the platter. This usually damages the magnetic coating that encodes the ones and zeros of the disk's data; if the damage is severe enough, the data in the damaged section may be lost forever. The most common causes of true head crashes are a physical blow or impact, a rapid rotation or twist that makes the drive's platters try to act as a gyroscope, and electrical problems. Absent those causes, spontaneous head crashes, caused by failures in the drive itself, are rather rare. Assuming a drive isn't abused, it's bearings will suffer the most wear, followed by the positioning mechanism for the heads. Imminent bearing failure is often heralded by a grinding or scraping noise, especially at startup or when the system is cold. A head-positioning problem is sometimes accompanied by the soft, sighing sound of repeated head seeks, over and over and over (although this can be caused by repairable "soft" errors in the recorded data, too). So, given all that, how do you maximize drive life? I've set my desktop PC's drive to spin down after 15 minutes of inactivity; and my laptop drives to spin down after 5 minutes (the latter, shorter time to save battery power as much as to save wear and tear on the drive). I set my auto-save intervals (e.g. in Word) to be *less* than the spin-down time so that if I'm working with live, disk-based data or documents, the drive will stay active and spinning; trying for a "steady state" that reduces mechanical stresses. But if I'm away from the system or doing something that doesn't engage the hard drive very often, then the drive can spin down to save energy and wear. Even so, all mechanical systems will eventually wear out; even the ones that are totally babied. With reasonable care, a drive may last for many years--- but it may also die *tomorrow,* and without any prior warning. It's simply impossible to say exactly when any particular drive will die. (Manufacturers' "mean time between failure" figures can be a crude guide, but really only apply to statistically significant groups of drives, not to individual units. See http://ssdirect.com/ca/news/2005/05.htm ) Given that no drive lasts forever, I operate on the assumption that my data is more valuable than my physical drives, so I do let the drives self-maintain (backups, scans, etc) on a regular and frequent basis. Yes, running a backup and scan will ever so slightly reduce the life of the drive, but *the drive may wear out or fail anyway, no matter what you do,* so it's better to be prepared for that day, and to have safe, secure, known-good, malware-free backups on hand. So, as with so many things, it's really up to you: You need to strike a balance between shutting down enough to prevent needless wear and energy consumption, but also to keep the system running enough to perform a reasonable amount of maintenance, security scans, and backups: You don't want needless wear on the drive, but you also don't want to be caught unprepared if your drive decides that today's the day to stop spinning! <g> Click to email this item to a
friend 3) PC Cooling, Even In Near-Tropical Climates
I sympathize, Doug. My office also doesn't have air-conditioning, and on very warm days, my PC's temperatures rise noticeably. But that's the first step: You need to know the actual temperatures. A normal, air-cooled PC will always run warmer than the room it's in, but that isn't necessarily a problem, even in a 90F/32C room; it only matters if the temperatures climb high enough to damage the electronics or to needlessly shorten their lives--- and only knowing the actual temperatures, and comparing those temps to the manufacturers' specs, can tell you that. The link at the end of this item will lead you to free software for measuring your PC's internal temperatures, so you'll know whether or not you really have a problem. For example, my CPU is rated by Intel to be OK up to 158F/70C. But even on the hottest days here, with Mississippi-like temperatures, my system never even gets close to that. In fact, the highest CPU temp I've ever seen is 139F/59C, under absolute worst-case conditions; and that's way, way short of the danger zone. Normally, my CPU temperature runs about human body temperature. <g> A CPU is the main heat-generator inside the case. The fans or openings on the side of a PC's case are usually meant to deliver cool air right to the CPU, or rather, its heat sink. In a standard case design, the fans on the back of a case blow warm air outward (they're exhaust fans); cool air is drawn in through openings in the front of the case. There may also be intake fans on the front of the case to help draw cool air in. You basically want a "flow through" air path, with the intake on the opposite side of the PC from the exhaust (so warmed air isn't drawn back into the case). Remember that a PC with many low-speed, large-diameter fans, can be much, much quieter than a PC with even a few small, high-speed fans; and that thermostatically-controlled fans can automatically adjust airflow depending on conditions. These two factors are the key to effective, quiet cooling. My system currently has one intake fan, blowing room air into the case (and across the hard drive); one exhaust fan pushing warmed air out of the case; and two fans inside the case: One very large, slow-spinner for the CPU's heat sink, and another large, slow fan for the video card's processor. *All* the fans are oversized (the exhaust fan, built into the power supply, is 120mm--- almost 5 inches--- across); all spin at low speeds; and the main exhaust fan is thermostatically controlled so it can be slow and nearly silent most of the time, but also can speed up to meet adverse conditions when necessary. You asked about the basics of cooling: We've actually had four full-length articles ranging from the basics to some fairly advanced topics: You can pick up the thread here, and then follow the internal links back to the earlier parts: http://www.informationweek.com/story/showArticle.jhtml;?articleID=21401323 It'll tell you everything you need to know about PC cooling--- even in Mississippi! <g> Click to email this item to a
friend 4) 64-Bit Software ProblemsWe've begun covering 64-bit computing, due to the current availability of 64-bit hardware, and the slowly increasing availability of 64-bit software. See, for example: Feedback On 64-bit Hard/Software OS Swaps; 64-bit CPUs To complement and extend the above, here's another reader's real-life experience with a 64-bit setup:
Thanks, Larry. The 64-bit stuff works, but as you discovered, there's simply not a lot of software available yet. I see no reason to change my earlier assessment:
Click to email this item to a
friend --- ( Your Clicks On Ad Links Help Keep The LangaList S.E. Free! ) --- "Thank u, Thank u, thank u for the archives! Saved me again.
Had trouble SEE ALSO #11, BELOW --------------( the above is an advertisement )-------------- 5) Bogus Beta?First, just to get us all on the same page: Software is usually developed in stages: "Alpha" code is the early stuff--- rough-draft software that creates the framework for later features and functions. It's usually only seen by members of the development team. It's usually very unstable and buggy, and can change enormously from one "build" to the next. "Beta" software is prereleased, unfinished test code that can give you an idea of what a final product might look like. It's used for testing the code on real-life systems to find what's broken or missing, so that fixes can be made prior to final release. Early beta versions are usually very buggy and unstable, and can change dramatically from build to build. Late betas are theoretically approaching releasable quality; successive builds of late betas are usually just bug fixes. Beta software may be released to the public for widespread testing, or kept private. Some betas are a formality or mild scam--- it's really release code, but the software company calls it "beta" to lower expectations and support obligations. But a true beta *is* unfinished, buggy, and requires skill and care in handling; and should not be used on real-life PCs unless full, thorough backups are made on a regular and frequent basis. "Gamma" or "Gold" software is effectively the finished, first-release, version 1.0 code, once it leaves beta test. It's also sometimes called "RTM," or "released to manufacturing" code. Depending on the complexity of the software, the thoroughness of the beta test, and the skill of the programming team, the gold/gamma/rtm code may or may not actually be stable and relatively bug-free. This reader had a problem with a new beta:
First, there *is* a new beta of IE7 in limited release:
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/IE/ie7/default.mspx But my guess is that you didn't get your copy through one of the official channels; and that you got--- at best--- a hacked copy with spyware inserted. It's actually a fairly common ploy for malicious hackers--- "crackers"--- to use beta software to deliver hostile payloads to user PCs. These beta version are usually posted on third-party sites and "warez" boards, rather than being found on the actual vendor site. Every version and beta of Windows as far back as I can remember has appeared in hacked form on warez boards, for example, where malicious posters hoped to infect the PCs of the unwary. If you're interested in tracking legit beta versions of software, http://www.betanews.com/ is a good site to bookmark. As far as I know, it's reliable, and doesn't point to bogus/hacked/warez versions of betas. Betas can be hairy enough. When you opt to try a beta version, be sure you get your copy from an official source! <g> Click to email this item to a
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Nice find, John, thanks! Click to email this item to a
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Do you have a home page or website? (It doesn't matter what size.) Please
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Speaking of which: Here's another eclectic sample of reader sites--- some
professional, some very personal: Manually Browse All Posted-to-Date Sites Starting At Compu-Rx The Reign of Ellen moregolf4less Prism Instruments Toby's Place Game-It-Yourself Armadillo Technologies IrfanOnline Blog: Lenny Vasbinder It's Our World, You Just Live In I Click to email this item to a
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Daily, or nearly so, is very good indeed. This is very encouraging news, Jim, thanks! Click to email this item to a
friend 10) Just For Grins
Thanks, Joe. I don't know how practical that is (unless you change key assignments a lot) but on the coolness scale, it's a 10/10! Click to email this item to a
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